Garage Floor Coatings in Prescott, AZ

Most 2-car garages, about 400 to 450 square feet, start around $2,200 to $3,000. That covers grinding, minor crack filling, an epoxy base coat, full flake, and a polyaspartic topcoat. The final price depends on the size of the floor, its condition, and any extras below. We give you a written price after we see the floor, and financing is available.

Stem walls, removing an old coating or thick sealer, a moisture barrier if testing shows you need one, color-matched sealant in the control joints, and heavy crack or spall repair. We price these after we see your floor, and each one is a separate line on your estimate.

Yes. There’s no minimum. We coat one-car garages, workshops, laundry rooms, and small patios regularly.

We use both, because each does a different job. The base coat is epoxy, which handles moisture from the slab and bonds hard to ground concrete. The topcoat is polyaspartic, which holds up better to sun, scratches, and hot tires than an epoxy clear coat. When another company says epoxy peels, they usually mean DIY kits or epoxy topcoats, not a ground slab with a polyaspartic finish.

Moisture. A lot of Prescott-area homes sit on rock close to the surface, and groundwater collects on it. That water pushes vapor up through the slab. Our epoxy base is rated for 9 pounds of vapor per 1,000 square feet per day. Most polyurea and polyaspartic base coats are rated for about 3.

You can walk on it after 24 hours, but we recommend waiting the full 48 if you can. You can park and move everything back in at 48 hours.

Our epoxy base coat handles moisture far better than the fast-cure bases some companies use. That’s what lets our warranty cover moisture. The trade-off is one extra day before you park.

Yes. We install year-round and keep the same 48-hour timeline by switching to fast-cure products and the right topcoat for cold weather.

With proper prep and good materials, 10 to 20 years. Every garage floor carries our 10-year warranty, and that warranty covers moisture.

Our standard flake floor has a light texture in the topcoat for grip, and we haven’t had customers tell us it’s slippery. Any smooth floor gets slicker with water, snowmelt, or oil on it, bare concrete included. If you’re concerned, we can add extra grit to the topcoat. You can feel the difference on samples in the showroom.

Some tires can. Rubber contains chemicals called plasticizers, and hot tires can leave a brown stain as they cool. Standard tires rarely cause trouble on our polyaspartic topcoat. The ones to watch are high-performance and Z-rated tires, common on sports cars and many Teslas. That’s why we ask what you drive at the estimate. If you have those tires, we switch to a topcoat built to resist staining.

We cut each crack open with a V-shaped blade, fill it with patch, and grind it smooth so the repair sits flush under the coating. On slabs that have already done most of their settling, repaired cracks rarely come back. On a slab that’s still moving, a crack can show up again, and we’ll tell you at the estimate if yours looks like it’s moving.

We recommend leaving them open. Control joints are the straight cuts in your slab, and they give the concrete room to move. If we fill them before coating, the filler can bulge or crack, and you get a line through a finished floor. The better option: after the floor is done, we fill the joints with a flexible sealant colored to match the flake. If the slab moves, any crack stays in the sealant, which is easy to touch up. This is a paid add-on.

We recommend taking it off. Our warranty covers a coating bonded directly to bare concrete, so we grind the old coating off first. In some cases we can sand an existing epoxy floor and put a new topcoat over it. That’s a lower-cost refresh, but it isn’t covered by our warranty.

Pour a little water on the concrete. If it soaks in and darkens, the concrete is bare. If it beads up or sits on top, there’s likely a sealer or coating. Most sealers come off in our normal grinding. A thick one may need extra removal work, which we list separately.

Sweep it or blow it out regularly. For a real cleaning, mop with a pH-neutral cleaner and warm water. We recommend Zep Neutral pH Floor Cleaner from Home Depot. You can also pressure wash it: stay under 2,000 PSI, use a 35-degree tip, and hold it a couple of feet back at a 45-degree angle. Skip degreasers, citrus cleaners, and abrasive pads. They can dull the finish and void the warranty.

Look for three things: white powdery residue on the concrete, dark or blotchy patches, and damp concrete under boxes or rubber mats. If you see any of these, tell us before your estimate. It doesn’t mean you can’t coat the floor. It means the system has to be built for it.

Every slab. We start with a moisture meter and look for the signs above. If anything points to high moisture, we run a calcium chloride test before we start. It measures how much water vapor comes through your slab in a day, and it takes about three days to get a result.

Most can still be coated. Our standard epoxy base handles up to 9 pounds of vapor per 1,000 square feet per day. Above that, we add a moisture barrier rated up to 26 pounds. It shows up as a separate line on your estimate, so you see the price before you decide.

Not much. Our grinders are hooked to industrial HEPA vacuums that pull dust in right at the source and capture nearly all of it.

Most families stay home without any problem. Our base coat is very low VOC, and the topcoat has a mild smell while it goes down. If someone in your home is sensitive to chemical smells or has a medical condition that makes vapors a problem, plan to be out for the topcoat.

Clear everything out of the garage and park your cars somewhere else. We don’t need your water, and we bring our own generators, so we won’t use your power. If you’d like us to move things out and put them back, ask and we’ll add it to your quote.

28 days after the pour.

Three things. First, put a 15 mil vapor barrier directly under the slab. Moisture coming up through concrete is the top cause of coating failure. Second, ask for a flat, light steel-trowel finish, not a hard or burnished power-trowel finish. Third, skip sealers and cure-and-seal products and wet cure the slab instead. Sealers soak in and block the bond. Give the slab 28 days before coating, and call us before the pour. We’ll talk to your contractor directly.